Guardian Weekend Entertainment Guide - Food & Drink
Familiarity, it’s said, breeds contempt. For now, however, growing northern pub company, Ribble Valley Inns, remains the source of much contentment. The Clog, the company’s third pub-restaurant, may be its best yet. Unlike the Three Fishes and The Highwayman, both barn-like buildings whose makeovers felt a little antiseptic the Clog is altogether cosier. It’s a sensitively lit, cleverly subdivided space, with an area where drinkers can sup relatively undisturbed. Food- wise, the Clog sticks to the RVI formula : superb local ingredients put to work in broadly traditional British dishes, though the menu does include a handful of new additions. These include great steaks, a rustling portion of whitebait, served with a deliciously poky paprika mayo, and a cautiously modernised toad in the hole, in which all elements combine handsomely.Tony Naylor



